Fresh Focus: How Local Foods are Defining a Town

Last month in Fresh Cut magazine, Edith wrote about several aspects of local foods. Since then, we have had several calls asking for some more information. This month, I will look at how local foods are being used to market – and define – Asheville, N.C.

It’s not officially a trend anymore. It is a reality. Local foods are driving foodies to eat out – even in a down economy. Don’t believe me? Ask your own local chef-owners.

The other day I met a woman, Erin, who trained to be a chef at the prestigious Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y. We had a wonderful three-hour talk about the CIA, local foods and fresh-cut produce.

Last June, Edith and I had a terrific dinner at one of the CIA’s five on-campus restaurants. The American Bounty was exactly what you would think. Fresh, local and purely American food. A stop at the outstanding bar before dinner provided us with several “tastings” of delicious Oregon Pinot Noir and other fine wines, so we were ready to eat that night. Our dinner was outstanding, the service great and the atmosphere was very enjoyable.

My new friend commented that while attending the CIA, she learned to cook every kind of food imaginable, but was absolutely amazed at the local produce the Hudson Valley has to offer.

“The sweetest corn I’ve ever tasted comes from Hurley, NY,” she said. “And the strawberries were amazing.”

Her culinary career took her out to the West Coast and Colorado before she settled in Asheville.

What’s Up In Asheville?

I had to know why she chose Asheville. Her answer was layered with reasons – the beautiful scenery and outstanding weather; the friendly people; the outstanding food and dining options available.

Pretty much the same reasons most new residents will tell you if you ask. Our conversation meandered to our local restaurants here in Asheville. Nearly 90 independently-owned restaurants have banded together to form AIR – the Asheville Independent Restaurant Association. Being foodies, Edith and I have had the opportunity to meet quite a few of these owner-chefs over the past 15 months. You can check out www.airasheville.org to see how these folks are marketing themselves as an alternative to the usual chain restaurants.

One website for Asheville has chosen to really play this up. If you visit the following website link: http://www.exploreasheville.com/foodtopia/index.aspx, you will see what I am talking about. Local growers, chefs and restaurants are highlighted. Recipes are shared. Readers are encouraged to ask local growers questions. Produce markets (tailgate and others) are highlighted. Regional specialties are noted. And even organic items get their fair share of space.

Local Restaurants Feature Local Foods

Erin noted that the local chefs really are involved in the local food movement. George Ettwein, owner-chef at the Black Forest Restaurant swears by the fresh local (North Carolina) mountain trout. But, he said, “I always feature plenty of fresh local produce when it is available.”

The Laughing Seed is a vegetarian restaurant that really features local fresh produce. Take for example a couple of side dishes:

• Black truffle potato-parsnip mash with sautéed broccolini
• Portobello, shiitake, porcini, and a variety of local mushrooms, finished with a truffled beet creme and roasted corn relish, served with seasonal sautéed greens

One of our favorites, Tupelo Honey, serves Southern food. Shrimp and grits…grit cakes…and lots of Southern Fried Chicken. There’s also a terrific selection of local produce and foods including this wonderful Southern Spring Salad consisting of the following ingredients:
• Seasonal, organic greens with mushrooms, dried cranberries, almonds, grape tomatoes and crumbled gorgonzola cheese, served with basil vinaigrette

On today’s Web site visit, I noted the following information from the restaurant:

• Tupelo’s Tomato Sandwich is still available by special request, although it has been temporarily removed from the menu until we are able to provide fresh spring tomatoes.

This is the kind of commitment I am seeing locally. They just won’t serve tomatoes that don’t taste like they came out of your backyard garden.

Get Involved with Local Restaurants

Everyone seems to enjoy the goodness of fresh local foods and the residual effect on the environment is another factor that people mention. With warmer weather now in swing across the country, this is the time to enjoy local produce and foods.

Since you are involved in the produce industry, make a point to talk with your local chef-owners when you frequent your favorite restaurants. If they don’t feature fresh, local foods, ask why not. There are so many different local farms producing great foods – not just produce – that it makes sense to take advantage of this.

From the farm to wholesalers to retailers to foodservice purveyors and onto your plate at home or in a restaurant, the local food movement is here to stay!